Three specialist workshops built the dial of Czapek’s newest Antarctique cell by cell, so that daylight passes through blue enamel to the movement beneath.
Czapek today introduces the Antarctique Plique-à-Jour in Polar Blue, limited to 10 pieces. It is the second of four watches marking ten years since the maison’s revival in 2015.
Plique-à-jour, “letting in the daylight”, lays coloured enamel into open metal cells with no backing, fired at around 900°C. MD’Art made the metal structure, Bagues-Masriera applied and fired the blue gradient, and PBMC polished each dial in stages to avoid fissures.
Traditional plique-à-jour is often slightly opaque from air bubbles; this dial is completely transparent, the brand says. Through it shows the skeletonised calibre SXH7, with a recycled platinum micro-rotor and 60 hours of power reserve.
“This project is about preserving a rare artisanal know-how while giving it a new role in modern watchmaking,” says Xavier de Roquemaurel, CEO of Czapek & Cie.
Each dial is fired, polished and inspected cell by cell, so no two of the ten will ever quite match — the point of the technique, not a flaw.
The Basics
Brand: Czapek
Model: Antarctique Plique-à-Jour – Polar Blue
Diameter: 40.5mm
Thickness: 10.6mm
Case material: Stainless steel
Dial: 18K white gold with a gradient of grand feu blue plique-à-jour enamel; luminescent sword-shaped steel hands
Water resistance: 120m
Bracelet: Integrated stainless steel with “Easy Release” micro-adjustment; additional rubber strap
Limited edition: 10 pieces
The Movement
Calibre: SXH7, in-house, skeletonised
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Winding: Automatic, recycled platinum micro-rotor
Power reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 25
Images courtesy of Czapek.